The best things in life are free. Or maybe just 7 lukas*.

Ok, so maybe not all the best things in life are free since food, clothing, shelter (and travel, the other essential) can cost a pretty penny.  But there are some things here in Santiago that are worth more than you could ever pay for.  Like after 3+ months of riding the Metro and having no one give me more than a stare, to have a businessman start up a pleasant conversation and then when we arrived at my stop tell me "que le vaya bonita" (that things go beautiful for you).  Or after giving a presentation on a what school is like in the US to two classes of 45 first graders having one run across the patio at recess screaming "Tia, Tía!" (they call their teachers aunt here) and when he reached me say, while out of breath, "I really liked your class".  Or taking part in the many free cultural offerings this city has on offer from dance and music performances and lectures to historical walking tours of different neighborhoods.  This past Sunday I joined the Cultura Mapocho group on a tour that highlighted patrimonial sights a few blocks from my apartment on a street called Compañia de Jesus.   The tour is run by volunteers who give interesting tidbits about the sights and also encourage critical thinking.

For instance, as we visited several restored palatial homes that had been converted into a shopping center, the guides questioned by whom, for whom and for what purpose should restoration and preservation be done.  It was really neat.  

Nothing in Santiago is complete without a quiltro.

Not free, but delicious and equally neat, was the lunch Anton and I had afterward at Peluquería Francesa, a very cool old restaurant in a historic building with different rooms, old knick knacks and paintings for decorations, and where no two table and chair settings are alike.  The food was delicious, we needed steaks to fortify ourselves after a tough hike the day before.  The restaurant gets its name for the barber sharp next door that seems to have kept everything in tact for the last 60+ years.  Old sinks, wall decorations and chairs makes you feel like you're taking a walk back in time when you enter.  I saw they give lady haircuts, that it was only 7,000 pesos and took a chance.  Fidel, who must have been about 80, gave me one the greatest haircuts I've ever had.  It was really delightful to have someone like a grandpa, doing my hair with simple unsophisticated tools and supplies in a way that only an experienced barber could.

this is a google image shot of Peluqueria Francesa.  I really need to get over my photo taking shyness.

Santiago has so much wonderful energy and amazing things to witness, both free and pay. What I love most is that it's not in your face cool like Barcelona or Paris but it has many gems right below the surface waiting to be discovered.  Don't get me wrong, I can get frustrated by the inefficiency, lack of customer service, indirectness and everything else different than home.  But every time we go for a walk in a different part of the city, I am struck my something new, interesting, and thought provoking from pretty architecture, a neat shop, or public art to name a few things.  I'm not out of the honeymoon phase quite yet and am sad to have to get ready to leave.  I had my last visit at my most favorite school today and I was not happy about it one little bit.  The one consolation to my impending departure are the travels ahead.  I've never been a backpacker before!  Traveling around South America is a dream come true! I just want to make sure to hold with me all the awe and wonder this experience has brought.


*A luka is the slang term for 1,000 Chilean Pesos, about $1.50 USD

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El Viejito Pascuero, Jacarandas, and Other Causes for Awe and Wonder in Chile

Last spring, I mentioned to a co-worker that I would have to brush up on my Spanish before going to Chile.  She, a former Fulbrighter in Chile, told me I would have to learn Chileno.  I nodded and giggled and had no idea what I was in for.  Despite being a bit of a blow to my language ability confidence it has been neat to learn the idiosyncrasies of Chilean Spanish.  Most puzzling of all has been the reference of all things Christmas as Pascua.  I always thought that Pascua, similar to the Italian Pasqua meant Easter.  But here, the only place in the Spanish speaking world, it means Christmas.  You've got Pan de Pascua (fruit cake), El Viejito Pascuero (Little Old Easterman aka Santa Claus), Calendario de Pascua (advent calendar) and Felices Pascuas (Merry Christmas).  After conducting a mini-inquiry project about it, no Chilean seems to know the origin, that's just the way it's always been.  I bet you're wondering what they call actual Easter? Dia de la Resurrección.  

To add to the confusion, it's full on summertime weather here, not the New England feel for the holiday season.  But it's just beautiful.  Everywhere you turn there are these bright purple jacaranda flowers which I'd never seen before.  

It's been a nice backdrop to a busy week.  Lots of events and meetings. I also can't help but be totally distracted but upcoming exciting travels.  A visit from our dear friends, Eric and Emi!  Seeing Machu Picchu with Joe and Lindsay!  Christmas in Lima with Lisie! My sisters in Southern Chile!  It's quite difficult not to prioritize planning the fun stuff.  But it's time to focus on putting together all the valuable information for my final work products.  I'm very sad to see my time here wind down.  I'm still discovering so much.  

A little recap of what has been going on:

Cathy, my schopping buddy and fellow educator, and I.

 At the tail end of the week before last, I presented at and attended TESOL Chile, a conference for teachers of English.  At the conference,  I chatted with other professors, teachers, and students I have met and worked with.  It was great to feel like I had a little network.  

I had the honor of meeting with Eledin Parraguez, the real life Machuca.  Eledin was a student in Chile's most famous and perhaps only educational social integration project which took place right before the dictatorship.  It was incredibly inspirational to talk with him.  Education totally transformed his life and he spoke eloquently about traversing two cultures, home and school. Reminded of why I became a teacher and made me grateful for what I do.  It was also very helpful for my project.  Funding for impoverished students to attend an elite school came from cooperative work on a working farm.  The original project based learning.  He is now a teacher and writer and I was lucky enough to attend a poetry reading to hear him read his beautiful work.  

Fellow Fulbrighters and I were treated to an early Thanksgiving luncheon at Deputy Chief of Mission's (2nd to the Embassador) home.  It was delicious! Not sure where they got all the authentic ingredients but it was so close to home.  (Zia Cathy, if you're reading this, don't worry, the pie was nowhere near as good as yours.)  After lunch I jetted off, full of turkey, to present at a staff meeting at my favorite school on Barbieri's efforts to implement academic conversations.  And I did the presentation in Spanish, realizing maybe my language ability isn't so bad after all!

Another treat last week was a visit from Betsy from the State Department.  She was here to get know first-hand, the experience of the Fulbright teachers in Chile.  It was really neat to get to tell her all about what's going on with education in Chile.  

Me and Betsy at Thanksgiving lunch

The week wrapped up with a presentation at a diploma course for mentor teachers with Cathy at the Universidad Catolica de Valparaiso.   With everyone new person I meet, I gain valuable and interesting information.  That was certainly the case with talking to mentor teachers about their opinions and experience with cooperative work.  I also realized how I've gone from hyperventilating before a presentation to looking forward to it.

So much to be thankful for in this experience! Happy Turkey Day everyone!

A spaahhh treatment hit the spot!

I feel like I'm adding years to my life span by taking some time away from work and my usual life and by having a chance to reflect on my profession while exploring another piece of the world.  But, it was a long week of ups and downs in Temuco.

DOWNs included:  being completely blown off by the professor who, through email and months in advance, told me she would help me make connections and encouraged me to visit Temuco.  After several emails politely asking for her help and to get in touch, I never heard from her, leaving two days without school visits.  Also, the internet being out for 3 days at the airBnB (it is a big deal when trying to get work done!) and when the internet came back, realizing the phone reception was terrible. Another low- partying like I was 21 one night, forgetting that I would feel the effects like I was almost 33 the next day.  No bueno. On my last day, I was looking forward to returning to the school I first visited.  I made the trek out to the campo to the school (much easier this time), only to have the director tell me that he forgot about me because a teacher that had been ill had passed away and they canceled classes for the day.  He did offer me a ride back to town on the bus that they had rented to attend the funeral, but I passed.  That left another day with no agenda.

Temuco from Cerro Nielol

But the UPs included using those free days to make some progress on my final project and to put together some upcoming presentations.  I was accepted to present at the TESOL Chile conference, at a staff meeting at a school and to a class of 1st graders on school in the USA.  Spending time with Anne, the airBnB host was really great.  She was really interesting to talk to, laid back and had some hilarious insights on the US from her German perspective.  Her Spanish grammar and pronunciation weren't perfect but that didn't stop her from being super out going, friendly, and adventurous, and the type that just goes- with or without a plan, something for me to aspire to.  Having fun at said party was a plus, too. There was also a super awesome used book fair at a university, a great climb up the city's big hill, a free yoga class, and meeting Juan's dad, Carlos for lunch one afternoon.

Ines the Director and me 

playground at Allipen

The best part of the whole week was a visit to Escuela Allipen in the town of Freire, a ways outside of Temuco.  I got this connection from another profesor the Embassy put me in touch with.  It was an unforgettable and touching visit.  After taking the micro bus out, the director and picked me up in plaza of the two road town with the school bus van.  We made a few stops then headed more into the country to the school past views of the Volcano Villerica. Once we arrived, I realized the stops we made were to pick up some fresh bread and cheese to share with me over coffee.  It is so touching when people who have so little can share so much.  The school was a very precious place.  With only 100 students pre-K to grade 8, the student body is diverse in culture, learning needs and is comprised of kids who live in the remote country side.  I was the first visitor the school had had from the US, I talked briefly with different groups and answered some questions while the director took pictures of the visit.  It was humbling that to be so well received I just had to be born where I was born.

To take advantage of being in the south, Anton and I made a last minute plan to meet up and head to Pucón, a lake side town everyone raves about.  It is beautiful.  The high tourist season hasn't yet hit so the town is empty and quaint.  All the buildings are small and wooden.  It is surrounded by beautiful views of mountains.  I've haven't been to the Alps but it seems Alpine (probably thanks in part to the German influence here, too).  There is every outdoor adventure imaginable here horseback riding, kayaking, rafting, canopying, and hiking to a waterfalls or up a volcano.

We had a great hike in the Huerquehue National Park with spectacular views and company.  On the bus in, we met Emma a very mature Penn State student here on study abroad.  Not pictured below is the real live tarantula that crossed our path since I ran screaming upon the sight of it.

 To shed the soreness of the hike and troubles from the past week, we headed to Paradise aka Termas Geometricas, natural hot springs about an hour outside of town.  It was one of the most incredible places I have ever been.  The owner/designer enhanced the natural beauty of the area with a long wooden bridge that is a path that connects to stone pools of different temperatures.  I didn't bring my camera, check out the photos on the website!

While bathing in one of the 17 thermal pools I had some reflections for the week.  I'm really learning that it's ok to change your expectations and it's ok to be frustrated but not to let those frustrations overwhelm you.  Like what they are always saying in yoga, it's ok to be bothered but what you do with that bother is what effects your happiness.  Something only you are in charge of.

Mari Mari de Temuco

That's Mapuzungun for "good morning".  I am writing from Temuco, about 600 kilometers south of Santiago.  It is an area with access to Mapuche communities, the largest indigenous population of Chile.  Less than 10 years ago, the Ministry of Education began an initiative to maintain indigenous language and culture in schools.  Some schools near here are designated as Intercultural Bilingual schools.  The indigenous language is not a language of instruction but teachers are representatives of the community, Mapuche language and culture are taught, and the curriculum is modified for cultural relevance.  I thought Temuco was where I would be placed for my project so when I was assigned to Santiago, I knew I had to visit to Temuco to learn more, and thanks to a professional development grant from Fulbright I am able to.  

I've had quite a few "I'm not in Kansas anymore" moments in Santiago, and here in Temuco I've already had a few, "I'm not in Santiago anymore" moments.  Stepping out of the airport, the air immediately felt different- more fresh and pure.  The sun is less harsh and the weather is very pleasant.  The airport was surrounded by green fields and hills and on the drive into town we passed three snow capped volcanoes in the distance.  

The starkest difference was the help I got from strangers in getting to my first school this morning.  The only address I had for the school was a km marker on a highway.  The public transportation is micro buses.

No website or google maps to know how to navigate these babies.

Without knowing any better, I hopped on a bus that said the name of the town I knew the school was in.  A while into the ride through a rural and remote area, the driver asked me where I was going (?!?!) and told me I was on the wrong bus.  He pulled over, hopped out, flagged down another bus and told the driver where I needed to go.  On that bus a woman told me to follow her when she got off and she graciously lead me to the bus stop of a another bus.  Then on that bus, another woman told me she was going near the school and that I could follow her.  We got off, crossed the highway under a bridge by a stream and she pointed me towards the school.  What a journey and what generosity.  

The school was wonderful.  Though not a bilingual school, the student body of this public school, is majority Mapuche.  A small public school with one class per grade level, it has lovely buildings, classrooms and staff.  I got to observe a few classes with the "hablante" from the Mapuche community who is the indigenous language and culture teacher.  It was very interesting to sit in on the class as one of the students and learn a bit of the language.  Although the instruction seems similar to the traditional methods I have observed in other schools, the school environment seemed special.  Maybe it was the unique population or it's isolated location, but it was pretty neat. The director was kind and attentive.    

Last night, I had a drinks with my "housemates" here.  Anne, the German AirBnB host, Angeline, another guest from Worcester, MA who speaks English with an Australian accent after living there for 10 years, and I were chatting away in Spanish, go figure.  Very interesting women to share the evening with!

But not everything is puppies and rainbows.  The last few blog posts have been full of gratitude and happiness.  But you can’t have the good without the bad, right? I'm so happy to have had a good day since the days leading up to it were less than stellar.  

At the end of last week I was just feeling a little bummed about humanity.  That feeling unfortunately pops up every once in a while.  Many people in Santiago "work" by selling goods (chocolate, ice cream, panty hose, plants . . ) on the street and on public transportation.  It's hard to imagine being able to make a reasonable living from those efforts.  It's such a harsh contrast to the business suits and the fancy cars that drive around.  Makes you feel grateful and guilty all at the same time.  

And also weariness struck.  Around Halloween, I cherish the photos of my friends and especially of their babies all dressed up and celebrating.  I know I'll see everyone again soon and I know that missing the Halloween bike ride for the first time in 5 years is a small price to pay for this adventure.   I’m not sure if that’s what triggered it or if it was just time, but I felt a little of what might have been homesickness.  Not that I wanted to go home.  I just had some longing feelings for the comforts home has to offer.  Yesterday, walking around the mall trying to find help to get my cell phone to work I was rambling to myself, "wouldn't it be nice to be somewhere with great customer service, to be able to communicate without any challenge, to be able to try on both shoes instead of just one in a shoe store. . . "

Actually, I think it was starting off in a new place again that did it.  I was feeling back to square one.  Anton decided to stay in Santiago, so I was alone again.  I was also waiting to hear back (still am) from people I was in touch with about school visits.  Sundays are rough too since mostly everything is closed down.  But hopefully today was a good indication of how the rest of the week here will go!  

Time really does fly

Remember when you were a kid a summer would seem everlasting?  Now it goes by in the blink of an eye. When you´re 8 years old, three months is a big chunk of your life, at 32, they are just a few out of many many month you´ve lived.  I think the theory that times goes by quicker the older you get is so true.

Walking to school today, I realized it was exactly one year ago that I was working vigorously on my Fulbright application.  Over a bottle of wine and tears from a rough time at school, I took the idea of applying out from the back of my head where it has been hiding as Anton encouraged me to take the plunge and do the application.  For two weeks I did nothing but school and the application, barely pulling it off at the last second.  Now here I am!

Hearding dogs would be easy

Some of Santiago's many well-fed street dogs or "quiltros" outside my apartment building to welcome me home for lunch.  Funny to see them here as they are usually right in the middle of the hustle and bustle.  They normally choose a doorway or sidewalk for snoozing.

Sometimes, a hard part about doing my inquiry project is containing all the information, ideas, and questions that happen at the same time during a visit with a school or person.   I think the expression is used for gathering people together but it might be like herding cats.  I'm afraid that by the time I've totally grasped one idea, another might escape.  There is so much useful and interesting information coming at me at once and they translate to scattered notes in my notebook.  My mind and heart overflow with insight and inspiration and I worry won't be able to sift through it into a coherent whole.  That happened today.  I hope a blog post is a good way to synthesize.

The greatest school visits have happened by following up on random leads and by the graciousness of schools to accept my offer to visit.  I've been visiting Colegio Latino Cordillera thanks to the owner of a tour company who mentioned he sent his kids there while a friend and I met him while dining out.  A few weeks ago, I met with an educational consultant I connected with through 5 degrees of separation.  She works in maintaining native languages and supporting schools in developing culturally relevant curriculum.  She mentioned that her daughter goes to school where they do a lot of investigations and projects.  Of course, I followed up.  This morning I went to the Escuela Franciso Varela, in Peñalolen, a pretty part of town I had never been too. The director generously spent time with me, answering questions, explaining the founding and guiding principles of the school (meaningful learning, happiness and transparency) and touring me around the while introducing me to students and staff.  I was totally blown away by the school and had never seen anything like it before.  The campus was a Waldorf School and is beautiful.  It is just three years old, accepts all learners and 1/4 of the population is on scholarship (both things VERY rare for private schools here).  The school has a Buddhist inspiration, not to indoctrinate students with religion but to use some of the principles for character development.  It was named after a famous Chilean scientist known for linking science and Buddhism. Students start each day with a mediation practice and do yoga twice a week.

At the end of the visit around the school, he sat me down and said he likes talking more about educational history instead of didactics.  Again I was taken aback with admiration. He told me some brief history of education in Chile, including the persecution of educators who organized during the dictatorship.  In the 80's three prominent educators were kidnapped and murdered and the director himself was shot in the stomach and went to recover in Germany.  We discussed how Chile's political history and educational history are so closely intertwined.  He remarked that anyone who things schools are just about teaching kids are greatly mistaken, referring to the fact that schools are political institutions.  We also talked about the current demands of education reform, the two main tenants being quality and opportunity. Currently teachers do not need to hold a master's degree and are required to take no continuing education courses after they acquire a teaching position. Leo, also mentioned some resources to learn more about the school philosophy, most authors who follow Reggio Emilia and Loris Malaguzzi.

I left the school feeling totally overwhelmed with info but mostly grateful and in awe (a recurring theme of my time here).  Just when I thought the morning couldn't be more special, I saw there was a place called Herbarium across the street.  It was an herb and garden store that was more like a secret garden.  Almost no one was there.  There was bright sun, chirping birds and beautiful views of the mountains.

The day isn't even nearly over yet!  Anton and I are going to finally climb one of Santiago's big hills, San Cristobal.  I still have to reflect on the practical information and ideas for the classroom I observed today but in terms of collating some my ideas, mission accomplished.

Regresé de mis viajes, navigué construyendo la alegría

I love Pablo Neruda's idea of traveling as navigating happiness, especially after two of the greatest days in Chile.  They started off with the presentation at a Symposium of Cooperative Learning.  It was really neat to use my experience and an area of interest to present to 100 eager undergrads. Ahead of time, I was hyperventilating and nauseous from nerves but pulled it off well.

                                  Straight after Anton and I headed to Viña del Mar, 1,5 hrs from Stgo. to visit with Cathy, a Fulbright Scholar living there.  She introduced us to her super nice friends Natalia from Chile and her boyfriend Nabil from France.  I had it in my mind that Viña was a snobby resort town but I was pleasantly surprised to learn it was a lovely seaside city. It was so nice to walk along the water and dine out with great company.

The next day we rode down to Isla Negra, the crown jewel of Neruda's three houses and it did not disappoint.  The house itself, like the other two, are heavily influenced by Neruda's love for the sea, good company, food and drink, and his writing.  It is also full of handpicked collections and objects from childhood and world travels.  Every item has a reason or a story. Like shelves of colored glasses in the bar room because Neruda though wine tasted best from a tinted glass.  Or the table made from the door of a boat that washed up from a shipwreck.  None of the houses allow photographs inside which in a way is too bad but on the other hand it makes it more special to rely on memory.  It is quite magical to walk the rooms and the grounds with the stunning views of the sea.  While there, one feels fortunate to be in such a special place.

Nabil, Natalia, Cathy, Me & Anton.  New friends at Neruda's.

After visiting Isla Negra, on a tip, we took a micro about 10km and walked for about 20 minutes to get to a seaside restaurant in the small town of Las Cruces.  Totally worth the trip.  A fantastic meal off the beaten path in the open air with spray from the sea.

Doesn't look like anything special but the house special was awesome.  Corvina (a white fish) covered with spicy shrimp and mussel sauce.

                                       

 On the jacket cover of a book I still plan to read, The Happiness Project by Gretchen Rubin, it says something like the best things in life are novelty and challenge.  Even though these can sometimes be the same thing and they exclude the comfort of the familiar, I whole heartedly agree that these are essential for happiness.  On the sign for Las Cruces was the motto "Paz y Encanto" (Peace and Enchantment).  I think these can also be great words to live by which allow for one's own interpretation.  To me, peace can be satisfaction with one's place in life in terms of their relationships and work, and acceptance of themselves without fighting any inner battles, basically overall contentment from tranquility.  Enchantment can come in many forms such as seeing new places, meeting new people and learning new things, and being curious about and in awe of the world.  If not words to live by, they were great words to reflect on as I returned to Santiago with a full belly and an full heart.