Ok, so maybe not all the best things in life are free since food, clothing, shelter (and travel, the other essential) can cost a pretty penny. But there are some things here in Santiago that are worth more than you could ever pay for. Like after 3+ months of riding the Metro and having no one give me more than a stare, to have a businessman start up a pleasant conversation and then when we arrived at my stop tell me "que le vaya bonita" (that things go beautiful for you). Or after giving a presentation on a what school is like in the US to two classes of 45 first graders having one run across the patio at recess screaming "Tia, Tía!" (they call their teachers aunt here) and when he reached me say, while out of breath, "I really liked your class". Or taking part in the many free cultural offerings this city has on offer from dance and music performances and lectures to historical walking tours of different neighborhoods. This past Sunday I joined the Cultura Mapocho group on a tour that highlighted patrimonial sights a few blocks from my apartment on a street called Compañia de Jesus. The tour is run by volunteers who give interesting tidbits about the sights and also encourage critical thinking.
For instance, as we visited several restored palatial homes that had been converted into a shopping center, the guides questioned by whom, for whom and for what purpose should restoration and preservation be done. It was really neat.
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Nothing in Santiago is complete without a quiltro. |
Not free, but delicious and equally neat, was the lunch Anton and I had afterward at
Peluquería Francesa, a very cool old restaurant in a historic building with different rooms, old knick knacks and paintings for decorations, and where no two table and chair settings are alike. The food was delicious, we needed steaks to fortify ourselves after a tough hike the day before. The restaurant gets its name for the barber sharp next door that seems to have kept everything in tact for the last 60+ years. Old sinks, wall decorations and chairs makes you feel like you're taking a walk back in time when you enter. I saw they give lady haircuts, that it was only 7,000 pesos and took a chance. Fidel, who must have been about 80, gave me one the greatest haircuts I've ever had. It was really delightful to have someone like a grandpa, doing my hair with simple unsophisticated tools and supplies in a way that only an experienced barber could.
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this is a google image shot of Peluqueria Francesa. I really need to get over my photo taking shyness. |
Santiago has so much wonderful energy and amazing things to witness, both free and pay. What I love most is that it's not in your face cool like Barcelona or Paris but it has many gems right below the surface waiting to be discovered. Don't get me wrong, I can get frustrated by the inefficiency, lack of customer service, indirectness and everything else different than home. But every time we go for a walk in a different part of the city, I am struck my something new, interesting, and thought provoking from pretty architecture, a neat shop, or public art to name a few things. I'm not out of the honeymoon phase quite yet and am sad to have to get ready to leave. I had my last visit at my most favorite school today and I was not happy about it one little bit. The one consolation to my impending departure are the travels ahead. I've never been a backpacker before! Traveling around South America is a dream come true! I just want to make sure to hold with me all the awe and wonder this experience has brought.
*A luka is the slang term for 1,000 Chilean Pesos, about $1.50 USD
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