Tiquitiquiti! Me endiecioché!: A recap of Fiestas Patrias

When I was headed off to Chile, those who had been or lived here told me how lucky I was to be here in September for the Fiestas Patrias and they did not disappoint!

September 18th is the Chilean Independence Day.  But the celebrations last not one, not two, not three, but FOUR days!  Most of the city is shut down and people are either at asados (BBQs) or fondas.  All over this amazing city in the parks there are fondas.  A fonda can best be described as a festival with food, drink, music, and folklore.

 

Day 1: It all started on Thursday night with a fonda in Providencia at Parque Ines Suarez.  My sister Michela's boyfriend, Juan, has a sister here in Santiago, Lula.  I was lucky to join her and her co-workers in the fun.  The fonda (which I later learned is the city's classiest) blew past my expectations. Imagine a huge park with artesanal vendors' tables set up all along the outside of the park.  We're talking real deal craftsmen and woman.  In the center of the park is an elaborate stage set up with nationally known artists.  In between the stage and the craft vendors is food and drink for sale.  Under one of the food tents is a DJ with a dance floor. Off to the corner of the park are rides for kiddos and up front in the park is a patio for dancing the traditional dance, cueca.

We caught Anita Tijoux's act which was great.  

Throughout the weekend I learned there isn't a whole lot of variety in the food or options.  But the patrimonial staples are pretty good, actually I just ate a whole lot of empanadas (baked and filled with meat, onions, olives, and hard boiled egg) and drank several terremotos (pipeño, pineapple ice cream and grenadine or fernet).  

My favorite part of the evening was the dancing.  Reminded me how much and one of the reasons why I love Latin America.  It was mildly awkward dancing while Shazaming but worth it! 

Rocio, Lula and Isabel tearing up the dance floor

Day 2:  Lucky again!  My dear friend Sophie's family friend, Becky, lives here with her husband Pedro and their son, Sebastian.  They were kind enough to invite me to an asado at Pedro's family's home.  There I ate delicious food, met kind and interesting people and talked a lot about school in Chile as there were several teachers in the family.  

Day 3:  On Becky's tip lucked out again at a fonda in Parque Padre Hurtado.  A long haul from the city center I was worried it may not have been worth the trip.  But Alexandra (my travel buddy) and I were pleasantly surprised.  We saw a squadron of the Army dressed in black with skull and crossbones perform tricks on horseback.  Totally not my thing, but very impressive.  Not sure what the explanation behind the uniforms or what the connection to the army is.  We saw more cueca while listening to great music and taking in the view of the cordillera.  

Io e Luigi
The best part of the evening was meeting this fellow here.  We randomly took a seat next to Mr. Luigi Malerba.  Hailing from Venezia, once a famed accordionist in Chile, 89 year old Luigi was full of life, stories and nuggets of wisdom and humor.  After he unabashedly (but innocently) tried to impress us a a man a fraction of his age might, I joined Luigi in singing a few Italian songs I remember from my childhood.  

 

A whole new meaning for barbecue

All set with empanadas y terremotos!

 Day 4: Recovery at the Pablo Neruda house in Santiago, La Chascona.  Another lovely spot!

Valparaiso is Valpar-amazing!

What a fantastic day in Valparaiso!  An inexpensive and relatively short ride away from Santiago, it is quite an alluring city.  Pictured here is only a sliver of what the city has to offer in terms of high quality street art.  Houses, stores, hostels, alley ways, stairs . . .so much is painted.

 Valparaiso is a port city that once flourished but began a decline once the Panama Canal was opened. The influx of people from the world round, plus the melancholy of a city longing for days past made it an artist destination.  Thus the street art and the location of one of Pablo Neruda's homes.

Pablo y Yo

La Sebastiana

I was both fascinated and impressed by the amazing architecture, deco, and history of the home.  It has a naval esthetic and captivating views of the sea. From what I could gather (and I have Neruda's poetry in the category of "things to learn more about"), he was a lover of the arts, people, sharing food and drink, and appreciated the finer things in life.  He also saw socialism as the only way to create equal rights for Chile's abundant copper workers.  Unfortunately, there were no photos allowed inside.  I would have loved to have shared the beauty that it is.


Valpo is made of many hills (cerros) there was once 30 working elevators to bring citizens and travelers up and down the steeps hills.  Now there are only 8 in working order but are relics from the 19th century!

  

 It was a pleasure to learn lots of information and explore the city with fellow visitors!

Espana, Brasil, Argentina, USA

READY . . . SET . . . NO GO!

I've got a Chilean cell phone number, apartment, and ID number.  I've been shamelessly networking like mad and am ready to go full steam ahead on my project BUT it's spring break here! Most to all of the schools are closed for the week.  In addition to researching some further topic ideas, I'll have to use my time to get to know the city's wonderful museums and parks, and maybe escape for a day to Valparaiso.

I got a good start on the city's tourist sites last week with a great walking tour, Tours4Tips.  I went on the two different tours they offer which included an intro to the historical and cultural sights in the city center and a tour of the city's major markets and cemetery.

La Vega Central, might be one of the most awe inspiring and generally awesome places I have been.  It's a 8 square block market selling all sorts of agricultural products.  The hustle and bustle and the offerings of the market were amazing.

This mural represents the solidarity of the 10,000 workers at La Vega.  They watch over and help out one another instead of relying on assistance from outside sources.  

I learned so much about the fascinating political history of Chile, sparking my interest in learning much more.  I lucked out by being able to tag along on the Spanish tour and made friends with other travelers.  In the cemetery, at the tomb of Salvador Allende we came across a few members of GAP (Grupo de Amigos Personales) who were with President Allende on the day of coup.  We were fortunate that the group willing to share their story with us.

 Friday September 11th, also marked an anniversary here in Chile.  That was the day in 1973 when General Pinochet and the Armed Forces staged the coup that lead to the 15+ year dictatorship.  I was advised by many sources to spend the evening at home to avoid any possible tensions and protests.  I used the time to watch two great movies recommended by the tour guides, related to the dictatorship, Machuca and No.

Last week I got to visit the school I am assigned to.  It is a neighborhood of Santiago where people raise eyebrows when I say the name.  I found it to be lovely.  I was there only briefly because the director is leaving his position for a job at the Ministry of Education and had an understandably busy agenda.  During my whirlwind tour of the school I saw there were 40, yes 40! kids per classroom.  There is also a administrative position that oversees all special education and helps the teachers collaborate with classroom teachers for mandatory inclusion services.  This is something I will definitely have to look into and learn more about when I return.

I also got to visit another university for an additional advising appointment.  It was incredible to see the contrast between the state run, students-so-politically-active-they're-striking school to an Opus Dei run, lively student body, and beautiful campus school.

I am loving all who I'm meeting, all that I'm seeing, and all that I'm learning.  Just anxiously waiting to be in schools!  Oh and super excited for this weekend's Fiestas Patrias- Independence Day celebrations!

Back to School!

I walked out of the (Airbnb) apartment this morning thinking about how it was just last week I was standing here with all my bags and not a clue of what to expect from this city.  Just 7 days later, I've got a strong sense of the people, the landscape, a Chilean cell phone number and an apartment! Although there remains A LOT to be seen and done, I feel like Santiago has offered me so much already.  

Today is "moving day".  I'm excited to have my own space but sad to say goodbye to my host and the beautiful Providencia neighborhood.  I will be more centrally and budget friendly located right in the heart of the city ten steps away from the Bellas Artes Metro stop.  Never have I nor will I ever live in such a dense urban area so I figure why not use this time to be in the heart of the city.  

Yesterday I had my first appointment with my advisor at the University of Santiago de Chile (USACH for short).  It was SO great to be back on a college campus.  Although this one was like a ghost town.  According to my advisor, Andrea, the students have been on strike for several months to pressure the school administration to reinstate a more democratic governance.  Before 1973 and the dictatorship, students, faculty, and administration could vote for the President and there were checks and balances for his decision making.  For the past 30+ years only full time faculty can vote for the University president and he has a lot of power.  I was impressed to learn about the students' role in political action, yet the strike creates many complications for students and faculty alike.  Needless to stay I won't be in any classes there. Luckily, Fulbright in Chile has recommended more than one advisor so that I can pool from more resources and perhaps audit classes at another university.  It was wonderful to meet with Andrea and hear her insights about my project and different situations in Chile. 

I'm feeling as though I'm back in New England with wild weather.  From hot and sunny a few days and then chilly and rainy the next. That's why this post is missing some photos. 

It's only natural

Day 5 in Santiago already!  It is really quite interesting and odd to go right from summer in Boston to spring here. Spring has arrived early and everyone is excited the cold weather has broke and that spring has sprung.  Flowers are blooming everywhere and it's WARM.  But unlike the States where everyone goes around in sundresses and sandals the second it passes 70 degrees, everyone is still bundled up, making me hot just looking at them.  As to not totally stick out, I've been dressing like its fall (plus I'm sad to miss sweater weather) and working up a sweat every way I go.  Then there is an occasional cool breeze and there's a chill in the air at night.  This change of seasons has led me to come down with a little cold.

This minor ailment let anxiety take over as the constraints of being a lone foreigner kicked in and I gave myself a bit of a pity party.  While discovering new neighborhoods and parks I wondered, what am I doing here?  I uprooted my life to feel lonely and also anxious about an impossible seeming project . . . why?  I tried not to let myself give into it as I trekked on.

I found a fair of Indigenous Women Artisan Entrepreneurs I had seen advertised and it was great! Lots of interesting food, crafts and herbal medicines made and provided by indigenous women with wonderful musical performances as well.  I would love to learn more about their homeopathic treatments with plants native to Chile.

Like those salves and balms, I think my worries and anticipations are only natural. Perhaps they're just a part of the process in integrating into a new culture and taking on the task of being a Fulbright Distinguished Teacher. At least that is what the optimist is telling the pessimist in me.

Uh, oh! The books are expensive but the wine is CHEAP!

I sure hope this is not a sign of how my project will go!  I bought a used, paperback book today for nearly $15, and a bottle of wine is about $5.

All kidding aside, it was confirmed that I'm going to have my work cut out for me bringing the project I had in mind to fruition.  The Fulbright Commission Director confirmed that although the most wealthy and industrious of all South American countries, Chile is the worst off in terms of equal education for all.  I'm actually a bit shocked that my project proposal and therefore application was accepted.  The goal of my project, to observe classroom interactions as apprenticeships between students of varying academic language skills is relevant in schools with students of different language and/or class backgrounds.  Several sources have now told me this basically does not exist here in Chile.  But there must have been something about my application that had Fulbright put their faith in me.  This means I may just have to work a little harder to cast a wider net by visiting more schools and fine tune my approach and objectives a bit. I'm totally up for the challenge.

 It was great to meet with the Commission to get out and see more of the city.  I got to have lunch with fellow Fulbrighter, Imani. Pictured here is my first hot dog completa Italiana.  The colors of the Italian flag, avocado, tomato and mayo!

Imani asked what my first impression of the city were, I was a little stuck.  It is a HUGE city with LOTS left to explore but at first it hasn't reminded me of any city I've ever been, yet there didn't seem to be anything extraordinary about it.  Then, walking "home", I caught a glimpse of the sun setting on the Andes and I gasped.  There are many extraordinary things to be discovered, big and small.

Is a bumpy start good luck?

I arrived in Chile this morning after about 20 hours of traveling.   I was very anxious since I hadn't heard back from the Airbnb host confirming my stay.  All I had when I arrived was over 100lbs of luggage and an address.  Low and behold when I arrived to the address, the apartment was in a big building and I didn't know the number for it.  After waiting around on the side walk for a while and trying not to worry, a neighbor took pity on me, let me into the building and I stashed my stuff.  As I began to explore the city, I tried not the think the worst case scenario.  Did my host change her mind?  Had she she fled the city or disappeared?  Would I be lugging my suitcases around Santiago looking for a place to stay?

Walking the beautiful tree lined streets of Providencia, I enjoyed watching people strolling, jogging and cycling.  That and catching glimpses of the snow peaked Andes between buildings, helped me take my mind off my fears.  I guess deep down I knew it would be alright and that maybe like rain on a wedding day, a bumpy start to a new adventure is good luck.  I was (and still am a bit) nervous about my arrival to Santiago since it it has been difficult to get in touch with Fulbright appointed people to help get my project started.  I have a feeling that maybe it's ok for the waters to be muddy before things become clear.  It could be a good lesson to relinquish a little bit of control and learn that a positive result is still possible.

Although it can be stressful arriving to a new city.  There is something unique and special about the fatigue of travel mixed with unfamiliarity as you get acquainted with your surrounding. . .navigating, converting the temperature (which by the way warm and sunny is NOT what I expected for "winter"), clumsily counting coins to pay the cashier and figuring out how much money you're actually spending.

I finally connected with the Airbnb host, Camila and within minutes of my arrival she was showing my some aerial yoga stretches and her daughter, Eva was playing me songs on her keyboard.  I think it's going to be a good week!