Tiquitiquiti! Me endiecioché!: A recap of Fiestas Patrias

When I was headed off to Chile, those who had been or lived here told me how lucky I was to be here in September for the Fiestas Patrias and they did not disappoint!

September 18th is the Chilean Independence Day.  But the celebrations last not one, not two, not three, but FOUR days!  Most of the city is shut down and people are either at asados (BBQs) or fondas.  All over this amazing city in the parks there are fondas.  A fonda can best be described as a festival with food, drink, music, and folklore.

 

Day 1: It all started on Thursday night with a fonda in Providencia at Parque Ines Suarez.  My sister Michela's boyfriend, Juan, has a sister here in Santiago, Lula.  I was lucky to join her and her co-workers in the fun.  The fonda (which I later learned is the city's classiest) blew past my expectations. Imagine a huge park with artesanal vendors' tables set up all along the outside of the park.  We're talking real deal craftsmen and woman.  In the center of the park is an elaborate stage set up with nationally known artists.  In between the stage and the craft vendors is food and drink for sale.  Under one of the food tents is a DJ with a dance floor. Off to the corner of the park are rides for kiddos and up front in the park is a patio for dancing the traditional dance, cueca.

We caught Anita Tijoux's act which was great.  

Throughout the weekend I learned there isn't a whole lot of variety in the food or options.  But the patrimonial staples are pretty good, actually I just ate a whole lot of empanadas (baked and filled with meat, onions, olives, and hard boiled egg) and drank several terremotos (pipeño, pineapple ice cream and grenadine or fernet).  

My favorite part of the evening was the dancing.  Reminded me how much and one of the reasons why I love Latin America.  It was mildly awkward dancing while Shazaming but worth it! 

Rocio, Lula and Isabel tearing up the dance floor

Day 2:  Lucky again!  My dear friend Sophie's family friend, Becky, lives here with her husband Pedro and their son, Sebastian.  They were kind enough to invite me to an asado at Pedro's family's home.  There I ate delicious food, met kind and interesting people and talked a lot about school in Chile as there were several teachers in the family.  

Day 3:  On Becky's tip lucked out again at a fonda in Parque Padre Hurtado.  A long haul from the city center I was worried it may not have been worth the trip.  But Alexandra (my travel buddy) and I were pleasantly surprised.  We saw a squadron of the Army dressed in black with skull and crossbones perform tricks on horseback.  Totally not my thing, but very impressive.  Not sure what the explanation behind the uniforms or what the connection to the army is.  We saw more cueca while listening to great music and taking in the view of the cordillera.  

Io e Luigi
The best part of the evening was meeting this fellow here.  We randomly took a seat next to Mr. Luigi Malerba.  Hailing from Venezia, once a famed accordionist in Chile, 89 year old Luigi was full of life, stories and nuggets of wisdom and humor.  After he unabashedly (but innocently) tried to impress us a a man a fraction of his age might, I joined Luigi in singing a few Italian songs I remember from my childhood.  

 

A whole new meaning for barbecue

All set with empanadas y terremotos!

 Day 4: Recovery at the Pablo Neruda house in Santiago, La Chascona.  Another lovely spot!